Sky-tower slider user's Guide

（The original text is provided by the author, and we only translate and reprint it. If there are any mistakes, please feel free to point them out in the comment area below, and we will check and modify them as soon as possible）

Hello everyone:

I am Dongjun, the non-famous EDC designer and brand manager.

I believe you have all received the first batch of Sky-Tower slider jointly released by Tigo and Lotus EDC. The players' reactions are both good and bad, and I have listened to them all. Overall, it still exceeded my own expectations. I also followed up on any gameplay or after-sales issues. There is an old saying, the product is sold, the service has just begun.

A few days ago, in the Bilibili posted a video explaining the internal structure of the Sky-tower (We have translated and recreated the author's video and will post it on YouTube later), but after that there are still players to ask me some factory configuration problems, so I decided to again in the form of graphics, more intuitive explanation of the following issues.

1、Magnet arrangement

First, put a factory magnet layout chart. Direct push module is all glue-free magnets, not to mention. Mainly rotating module. Where red indicates the factory sticky magnets, blue indicates the assembly of the glue-free magnets.

Respectively:

4x1.5 magnets, 2+2, 2+1

3x1.5 magnets, 12, 8

The number of adhesive-free magnets can be changed to adjust the feel of pushing and rotating.

If you have disassembled the magnets and want to reassemble them out of the default configuration, then you can follow the above diagram to arrange them. Just pay attention to one thing, that is, the symmetrical arrangement of the eight adhesive-free magnets, and the back of the snap direction to be consistent, that is, the overall are symmetrical left and right. If not symmetrical, there will be the upper and lower layers cannot automatically adsorb, but this may also be able to develop new ways to play, you can try more. After all, DIY is also the charm of glue-free magnets.

Glue-free magnets are easy to disassemble, but also because they are not fixed with glue, so the sense of paragraph is slightly inferior, pushing will have a rustling sound. Players who like stronger and crisper passages can consider gluing the magnets all together, and the hand feeling will be greatly enhanced.

If the red part of the magnet fell off, it is really deglue.

I choose the glue is ergo5800, as follows.

About 5800 sticky magnets will fall off, there are many different opinions. Maybe my technique is not good, after all, are their own manual sticky, there will inevitably be one or two off.

If the magnet really happens to be unglued, you need to re-glue it yourself. As far as I know, 502, 5800, 277, some people say it works well, you can try more. Also welcome to give me recommendations.

2, the screw is loose

After the screws are loose, the gap between the upper and lower two rotating modules will become larger, free of adhesive magnets may run off.

Loose screws have two situations, one is not tightened, one is tightened or loose.

The first case: finger pressed one end, only a screwdriver screw, so it is not tightened. The design of the center column is to prevent the upper and lower split, while not impeding the rotation, the size of the precise control, so only use your fingers to press, is unable to fix the center column. You need to use two screwdrivers and screw both ends together to really tighten. Incidentally, this does not come with a screwdriver.

The second case:

The screw will be tightened, and it will fall. This is also a common problem for pushing cards. After all, the push card is playing vibration. If you have more vibration, you may loosen the screws. This is not controllable. At present, the better method is to fix it with screw glue. I personally like to use blue diced gum, like rubber puree, which is easy to use.

3、Push jamming

Push the jamming of the situation is also divided into two kinds.

The first case: contact surface jamming, this mainly occurs in the sandblasted lining. Originally intended to do all the lining micro-polishing, but there is a problem is that the sandblasted and polished zirconium alloy, after baking black will have color differences, so finally decided to do a uniform surface treatment of the shell and lining. Sandblasted surface is more uniform, there will rarely be defects, when pushing can also be non-slip, but this also leads to the lining is not so silky smooth.

The solution is to play with it more and let the lining wear itself out or put on Teflon film. (To solve similar problems, Teflon lining has been in full swing testing)

The second situation: the track card astringent, this occasionally appears in the zirconium lining. Because the proofing is made of stainless steel, the structure is basically no problem. But zirconium alloy because to bake color to form a black oxide layer, equivalent to another layer on the original metal surface, so the amount of zirconium openings will be smaller than steel, that is, the track is narrower, the gap is smaller, which also leads to occasional jamming when pushing. In addition, the friction between the zirconium alloy, may have been less smooth. The solution, spray some wd40.

Copper, a metal with self-lubricating, unfortunately has a smell, will be black hands, so there are a considerable number of players do not like copper. The good thing is that the rotating module of Sky-tower does not come into contact with the hand during the playing process. We will probably learn from our predecessors in the circle and give the zirconium lining a white copper rotating module as standard, which is currently being tested. At the same time, this also means that the first batch of true zirconium Sky-tower, perhaps this is out of print, and everyone play and cherish.

Product purchase link:

https://bigwhiteedc.com/products/sky-tower

END